The big mistake of the day was to decline breakfast at the hotel, while forgetting it was Sunday with everything appearing closed in France. Other than one of the motorway shops and petrol station. We set out from Arras on yet another bright day. Temperatures went from 22 to 25 degrees as we travelled to Germany, but did not reach yesterday's high of 26 degrees.
Arras is an important military site and I am keen on military history and by degree a qualified Strategist. I have visited numerous war memorials and cemeteries in Belgium and France, but this time I thought that we would visit something involving the dreadful events of the Somme in World War I (The Great War).
I don’t sign up to the 'Lambs Leading Lions' theory as everything has a place in time and space and what was decided was decided with the best theory and practice of the time. British people think of the British loss of life, and quite rightly so.
Nevertheless I decided that I would visit the largest German military cemetery in France at Neuville St Vaast and pay my respects. You can find out more about the site at www.theirpast-yourfuture.org.uk. It was a humbling experience standing in a cemetery where the crosses went on as far as the eye could see. Unlike Allied crosses, the ones that I observed in the Neuville St Vaast cemetery had two names on either side of each horizontal cross. There are some headstones as well, as explained on the website.
My love of military history is endorsed by my wife, and Pauline insisted that we visit Vimy Ridge and the Canadian Monument to the North. This is a visit that anyone interested in the Great War cannot miss. The Canadians take great pride in remembering their fallen. Some of the Canadian and German trenches have been rebuilt and there is a free guided tour available as well as an informative Visitor Centre. I know that the trenches brought to life for visitors are the front trenches of the two armies, but it is astonishing to note just how close they were and how dangerous the undermining and subsequent explosions were for both sides. The name of the crater at the Vimy Ridge site is disputed as it is not known which army mined the area and set the explosion. I was shocked at how generous the Canadians are with a Poppy lapel handed over free of charge. That prompted a donation. The Vimy Ridge site is a lovely area which you could easily find yourself spending a whole day with a good picnic and a good friend.
It was then onto Cathédral Saint-Aubain, which is located at Place Saint-Aubain, 5000 Namur, in Belgique. This is the French speaking southern part of Belgium. We chose St Alban’s Cathedral as it is renowned for its Italian influence architecture. Which if course is a fitting choice, as this trip is after all a Grand Tour of Italy. It’s just that there are a lot of miles to cover before you reach Italy by road. The Cathedral was stunning, with a massive organ taken up the whole area inside above the entrance, and a pulpit that is a work of art. We stopped off at Brassiere in the square that was well up market. Plush is an understatement, as it was well equipped with fine furnishings and deco and up market bar staff. Pauline managed to demolish an astonishing ice cream, bottled water and an orange Fanta. Whereas I had coffee, water, and a Fanta with a total bill including a 2 Euro 50 cent tip coming in at under 20 Euro. This was followed by an enjoyable walk along the canal and a chance to see the walled fortifications of the town. It’s a pity that I didn’t see the car on the roundabout as easily as the fortifications. But all’s well as Pauline shouted ‘stop’, and she who must be obeyed was obeyed and we stopped well before the junction line. Phew, a close shave there then, and a lesson in paying attention when driving abroad.
We have now travelled from Wales, through England, across to France, into Belguim, through Luxenbourg and are now in Merzig in Germany. Our evening meal at Hotel Sonnenhof, Zum Sonnenwald 42, 66663, Merzig, Germany was lovely, as is the beer. We also enjoyed the company of two German nationals who took the time to decipher the German menu. I settled for a tradditional regional dish while Pauline went for Chicken with a mild curry sauce and rice and potatoes. Oh, and both of us had a delicious salad to start. Both salads contained a boiled egg and olives and was the best part of a meal in itself. We were having soup but something got lost in the translation.
Planning a Grand European tour important points are:
I made good use of www.laterooms.com, www.hotels.com, http://www.theaa.com/route-planner and http://www.google.co.uk/
Today’s important points were:
The Arras towards Namur in Belgium Motorway toll was only 3 Euro 90 Cents
There were no tolls in Belgium
There were no tolls in Luxemburg
There were no tolls in Germany
Breakfast of 1 coffee, 2 baguettes, 2 cakes, and a toasty to share cost 20 Euro on the motorway
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